Routes are located across the gorge from the New Funtier and can be spotted by hiking to South Park and the New Funtier. Approach the routes from the parking area by the upper bridge and follow the ice park trail. Cut right and take care wandering on top of the cliffs. Most of the climbs are located on a wall across from a pipe spewing lots of water (excess from the towns water supply). Look for anchors and rappel in to belay the climbs. These climbs stay pretty sunny. All of the routes are bolted. ROCK CLIMBING ONLY, NO DRY TOOLING PLEASE.
You will need to rappel into the canyon from the top of the climb and belay above the river, probably either on a ledge or hanging belay. Jimmy’s Arete is located across the canyon from a waterfall created by the town’s water overflow and just upcanyon from the School Room Ice climbing area. Routes are listed climbers right to left. The rock is Rodenite, although it is more featured and more quartz-like than the Techno Crag.
Grade Range: 5.11a – 5.12b
|Tips Hotline||11b||20m||Two roofs provide for two cruxes.|
|Jimmy’s Arete||11a||22m||The nice grippy texture of the rock seems to go away for the crux.|
|Tora Bora||11c||28m||Go right at the first roof. The holds above the upper roof can be tough to find. Shares anchors with Jimmy’s Arete|
|War on Tourism||11c||29m||Starts beneath a bonzai looking juniper on the cliff’s edge.|
|Behind Enemy Lines||11a||30m||Bolts|
|Hail to the Thief||12b||20m||Bolts|