Scottish Gullies

The Scottish Gullies are just below the Lower Bridge and are separted by rock buttress that feature some great mixed climbs. There is a good variety of climbs and possibilities in this area. Climbs may be accesed by rappel or by the walk down on the other side of the canyon, adjacent to the lower bridge.

One of the Scottish Gullies in the Ouray Ice Park, photo by Mike McLeod

One of the Scottish Gullies in the Ouray Ice Park, photo by Mike McLeod

Area Info

Routes: 6

Grade Range: WI2/3 – WI4

WI2/3 – *

WI3 -**

WI4 – ***

Mixed climbs in the Scottish Gullies

(heading downstream)

Mighty Aphrodite (M9 R/X, Small Cams and Stoppers), climbs a thin crack up the prominent buttress and can be toproped, but some directions (small gear) are helpful as the arete is steep.

Dizzy with a Vision (M7, Botls and Ice Screws), climbs just right on the downcanyon side of the arete. This was one of the first comp routes in Ouray. The route begins on ice, then traverses left on bolts to the arete. From here shorter folks may want to climb up the left side of the arete otherwise continue straight up clipping bolts and some other fixed gear to finish on ice. There are bolts at the top of the arete which also serve as anchors for Mighty Aphrodite and the Dizzy Curtain.

Water Torture (M8, Bolts) climbs the downstream face of the next arete. Climb thin cracks on the face, then a short traverse left and onto the ramp on the top. If the top of the route does not have ice, the topout may be difficult to impossible. There are bolts at the top of the route, or you can continue up to the tree.

Supremacy Crack (M7/M8, Gear) This route may have other names. Climb the crack to the right of Water Torture and finish at the same place. If the crack is filled with ice, you may not be able to protect the route.

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